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Previously on Using EAGLE EAGLE’s board designer is where a good portion of the magic happens. It’s here where the dimensions of the board come together, parts are arranged, and connected by copper traces. In the board editor, the conceptual, idealized schematic you’ve designed becomes a precisely dimensioned and routed PCB.

Mar 28, 2014 Como hacer un logo insertado en un PCB con el script de LogoCreator de Altium Designer. Link de la descarga del Logo Creator https://onedrive.live.com/?cid.

In this tutorial we’ll cover every step in EAGLE PCB design: from placing parts, to routing them, to generating gerber files to send to a fab house. We’ll also go over the basics of EAGLE’s board editor, beginning with explaining how the layers in EAGLE match up to the layers of a PCB. Create a Board From Schematic Before starting this tutorial, read through and follow along with the tutorial (not to mention the tutorial before that). The schematic designed in that tutorial will be used as the foundation for the PCB designed here. The schematic from previous tutorial, complete with an ATmega328P, barrel jack connector, LEDs, resistors, capacitors, and connectors. To switch from the schematic editor to the related board, simply click the Generate/Switch to Board command – (on the top toolbar, or under the File menu) – which should prompt a new, board editor window to open.

All of the parts you added from the schematic should be there, stacked on top of eachother, ready to be placed and routed. The board and schematic editors share a few similarities, but, for the most part, they’re completely different animals. On the next page, we’ll look at the colored layers of the board editor, and see how they compare to the actual layers of a PCB. Layers Overview is all about layering one material over another. The thickest, middle part of the board is a insulating substrate (usually FR4). On either side of that is a thin layer of copper, where our electric signals pass through.

To insulate and protect the copper layers, we cover them with a thin layer of lacquer-like soldermask, which is what gives the PCB color (green, red, blue, etc.). Finally, to top it all off, we add a layer of ink-like silkscreen, which can add text and logos to the PCB.

The layers of a double-sided PCB (image from the tutorial). EAGLE’s Layers The EAGLE board designer has layers just like an actual PCB, and they overlap too. We use a palette of colors to represent the different layers. Here are the layers you’ll be working with in the board designer: Color Layer Name Layer Number Layer Purpose Top 1 Top layer of copper Bottom 16 Bottom layer of copper Pads 17 Through-hole pads. Any part of the green circle is exposed copper on both top and bottom sides of the board. Vias 18 Vias. Smaller copper-filled drill holes used to route a signal from top to bottom side.

These are usually covered over by soldermask. Also indicates copper on both layers. Unrouted 19 Airwires. Rubber-band-like lines that show which pads need to be connected.

Dimension 20 Outline of the board. TPlace 21 Silkscreen printed on the top side of the board. BPlace 22 Silkscreen printed on the bottom side of the board. TOrigins 23 Top origins, which you click to move and manipulate an individual part. BOrigins 24 Origins for parts on the bottom side of the board. / / Hatch tStop 29 Top stopmask.

These define where soldermask should not be applied. Hatch bStop 30 Absent soldermask on the bottom side of the board. Holes 45 Non-conducting (not a via or pad) holes. These are usually drill holes for stand-offs or for special part requirements. TDocu 51 Top documentation layer. Just for reference.

This might show the outline of a part, or other useful information. To turn any layer off or on, click the “Layer Settings” button – – and then click a layer’s number to select or de-select it. Before you start routing, make sure the layers above (aside from tStop and bStop) are visible.

Selecting From Overlapping Objects Here’s one last tip before we get to laying our board out. This is an interface trick that trips a lot of people up. Since the board view is entirely two-dimensional, and different layers are bound to overlap, sometimes you have to do some finagling to select an object when there are others on top of it. Normally, you use the mouse’s left-click to select an object (whether it’s a trace, via, part, etc.), but when there are two parts overlapping exactly where you’re clicking, EAGLE doesn’t know which one you want to pick up. In cases like that, EAGLE will pick one of the two overlapping objects, and ask if that’s the one you want. If it is, you have to left-click again to confirm. If you were trying to grab one of the other overlapping objects, right-click to cycle to the next part.

EAGLE’s status box, in the very bottom-left of the window, provides some helpful information when you’re trying to select a part. For example: In the GIF above, a VCC net overlaps another named Reset.

We left-click once directly where they overlap, and EAGLE asks us if we meant to select VCC. We right-click to cycle, and it asks us instead if we’d like to select Reset.

Right-clicking again cycles back to VCC, and a final left-click selects that as the net we want to move. Enough pointers, let’s lay out a PCB! Arranging the Board Create a Board From Schematic If you haven’t already, click the Generate/Switch to Board icon – – in the schematic editor to create a new PCB design based on your schematic: The new board file should show all of the parts from your schematic. The gold lines, called airwires, connect between pins and reflect the net connections you made on the schematic. There should also be a faint, light-gray outline of a board dimension to the right of all of the parts.

Our first job in this PCB layout will be arranging the parts, and then minimizing the area of our PCB dimension outline. PCB costs are usually related to the board size, so a smaller board is a cheaper board. Understanding the Grid In the schematic editor we never even looked at the grid, but in the board editor it becomes much more important. The grid should be visible in the board editor. You can adjust the granularity of the grid, by clicking on the GRID icon –. A 0.05' grid, and 0.005' alternate grid is a good size for this kind of board. EAGLE forces your parts, traces, and other objects to “snap” to the grid defined in the Size box.

If you need finer control, hold down ALT on your keyboard to access the alternate grid, which is defined in the Alt box. Moving Parts Using the MOVE tool – – you can start to move parts within the dimension box.

While you’re moving parts, you can rotate them by either right-clicking or changing the angle in the drop-down box near the top. The way you arrange your parts has a huge impact on how easy or hard the next step will be. As you’re moving, rotating, and placing parts, there are some factors you should take into consideration: • Don’t overlap parts: All of your components need some space to breathe. The green via holes need a good amount of clearance between them too. Remember those green rings are exposed copper on both sides of the board, if copper overlaps, and short circuits will happen. • Minimize intersecting airwires: While you move parts, notice how the airwires move with them.

Limiting criss-crossing airwires as much as you can will make routing much easier in the long run. While you’re relocating parts, hit the RATSNEST button – – to get the airwires to recalculate. • Part placement requirements: Some parts may require special consideration during placement.

For example, you’ll probably want the insertion point of the barrel jack connector to be facing the edge of the board. And make sure that is nice and close to the IC. • Tighter placement means a smaller and cheaper board, but it also makes routing harder. Below is an example of how you might lay out your board while considering those factors. We’ve minimized airwire intersections by cleverly placing the LEDs and their current-limiting resistors. Some parts are placed where they just have to go (the barrel jack, and decoupling capacitor). And the layout is relatively tight.

Note: The tNames layer (which isn’t visible by default) was turned on to help identify which part is which. Adjusting the Dimension Layer Now that the parts are placed, we’re starting to get a better idea of how the board will look. Now we just need to fix our dimension outline.

You can either move the dimensions lines that are already there, or just start from scratch. Use the DELETE tool – – to erase all four of the dimension lines. Then use the WIRE tool – ( – to draw a new outline. Before you draw anything though, go up to the options bar and set the layer to 20 Dimension. Also up there, you may want to turn down the width a bit (we usually set it to 0.008'). Then, starting at the origin, draw a box around your parts.

Don’t intersect the dimension layer with any holes, or they’ll be cut off! Make sure you end where you started. That’s a fine start. With the parts laid out, and the dimension adjusted, we’re ready to start routing some copper! Routing the Board Routing is the most fun part of this entire process. It’s like solving a puzzle!

Our job will be turning each of those gold airwires into top or bottom copper traces. At the same time, you also have to make sure not to overlap two different signals. Using the Route Tool To draw all of our copper traces, we’ll use the ROUTE tool– – (not the WIRE tool!). After selecting the tool, there are a few options to consider on the toolbar above: • Layer: On a 2-layer board like this, you’ll have to choose whether you want to start routing on the top (1) or bottom (16) layer. • Bend Style: Usually you’ll want to use 45° angles for your routes (wire bend styles 1 and 3), but it can be fun to make loopy traces too.

• Width: This defines how wide your copper will be. Usually 0.01' is a good default size. You shouldn’t go any smaller than 0.007' (or you’ll probably end up paying extra). Wider traces can allow for more current to safely pass through. If you need to supply 1A through a trace, it’d need to be much wider (to find out how much, exactly, use a ). • Via Options: You can also set a few via characteristics here. The shape, diameter, and drill can be set, but usually the defaults (round, auto, and 0.02' respectively) are perfect.

With those all set, you start a route by left-clicking on a pin where a airwire terminates. The airwire, and connected pins will “glow”, and a red or blue line will start on the pin. You finish the trace by left-clicking again on top of the other pin the airwire connects to. Between the pins, you can left-click as much as you need to “glue” a trace down. While routing it’s important to avoid two cases of overlap: copper over vias, and copper over copper.

Remember that all of these copper traces are basically bare wire. If two signals overlap, they’ll short out, and neither will do what it’s supposed to. If traces do cross each other, make sure they do so on opposite sides of the board. It’s perfectly acceptable for a trace on the top side to intersect with one on the bottom. That’s why there are two layers!

If you need more precise control over your routes, you can hold down the ALT key on your keyboard to access the alternate grid. By default, this is set to be a much more fine 0.005'. Placing Vias Vias are really tiny drill holes that are filled with copper.

We use them mid-route to move a trace from one side of the board to the other. To place a via mid-route, first left-click in the black ether between pins to “glue” your trace down. Then you can either change the layer manually in the options bar up top, or click your middle mouse button to swap sides. And continue routing to your destination. EAGLE will automatically add a via for you. Route Clearance Make sure you leave enough space between two different signal traces.

PCB fabricators should have clearly defied minimum widths that they’ll allow between traces – probably around 0.006' for standard boards. As a good rule-of-thumb, if you don’t have enough space between two traces to fit another (not saying you should), they’re too close together. Ripping Up Traces Much like the WIRE tool isn’t actually used to make wires, the DELETE tool can’t actually be used to delete traces. If you need to go back and re-work a route, use the RIPUP tool – – to remove traces.

This tool turns routed traces back into airwires. You can also use UNDO and REDO to back/forward-track. That’s about all the simple rules there are. Go have the time of your life solving the routing puzzle! You may want to start on the closest, easiest traces first. Or, you might want to route the important signals – like power and ground – first. Here’s an example of a fully-routed board: See if you can do a better job than that!

Make your board smaller. Or try to avoid using any vias. After you feel like the routing is done, there are a few checks we can do to make sure it’s 100% complete. We’ll cover those on the next page. Or Use the Autorouter (Cheater!) If you’re short on time, or having trouble solving the routing puzzle, you can try loading up EAGLE’s Autorouter – – to see if it can finish the job. Open up the autorouter, don’t worry about these other tabs for now, just click OK.

If you don’t like the job the autorouter did, you can quickly hit Undo to go back to where you were. The autorouter won’t always be able to finish the job, so it’s still important to understand how to manually route pads (plus manual routes look much better). After running the autorouter, check the bottom-left status box to see how it did. If it says anything other than “OptimizeN: 100% finished”, you’ve still got some work to do.

If your autorouter couldn’t finish the job, try turning Routing Grid down from 50mil 10mil. There are tons of optimizations and settings to be made in the autorouter. If you want to dig deeper into the subject, consider checking out EAGLE’s manual where an entire chapter is devoted to it.

Checking for Errors Before we package the design up and send it off to the fabrication house, there are a few tools we can use to check our design for errors. Ratsnest – Nothing To Do! The first check is to make sure you’ve actually routed all of the nets in your schematic. To do this, hit the RATSNEST icon – – and then immediately check the bottom left status box. If you’ve routed everything, it should say “Ratsnest: Nothing to do!” As denoted by the exclamation mark, having “nothing to do” is very exciting.

It means you’ve made every route required. If ratsnest says you have “N airwires” left to route, double check your board for any floating golden lines and route them up. If you’ve looked all over, and can’t find the suspect airwire, try turning off every layer except 19 Unrouted. Design Rule Check Once you’re done routing there’s just one more check to be made: the design rule check (DRC).

For this step, we recommend you use the SparkFun design rules, which you can download. To load up the DRC, click the DRC icon – – which opens up this dialog: The tabs in this view (Layers, Clearance, Distance, etc.) help define a huge set of design rules which your layout needs to pass. These rules define things like minimum clearance distances, or trace widths, or drill hole sizesall sorts of fun stuff. Instead of setting each of those manually, you can load up a set of design rules using a DRU file. To do this, hit Load and select the SparkFun.dru file you just downloaded.

The title of the window will change to “DRC (SparkFun)”, and some values on the other tabs will change. Then hit the Check button. Again, look down to the bottom-left of the editor. If your design is perfect, you should see “DRC: No errors.” But if things didn’t go so swell, you’ll instead be greeted by the dreaded “DRC Errors” window. The error window lists all of the open errors, and it also highlights where the error is. Click on any of the errors listed, and EAGLE will point to the offender.

There are all sorts of errors that the DRC can find, but here are some of the most common: • Clearance: A trace is too close to either another trace or a via. You’ll probably have to nudge the trace around using the MOVE tool.

• Overlap: Two different signal traces are overlapping each other. This will create a short if it’s not fixed. You might have to RIPUP one trace, and try routing it on the other side of the board. Or find a new way for it to reach its destination. • Dimension: A trace, pad, or via is intersecting with (or too close to) a dimension line. If this isn’t fixed that part of the board will just be cut off. Once you’ve seen both “No airwires left!” and “DRC: No errors.”, your board is ready to send to the fab house, which means it’s time to generate some gerber files.

Before we do that though, let’s add some finishing touches to the design. Finishing Touches Adding Copper Pours Copper pours are usually a great addition to a board. Les Parapluies De Cherbourg Torrent Francais A Telecharger here.

They look professional and they actually have a good reason for existing. Not to mention they make routing much easier. Usually, when you’re adding a copper pour it’s for the ground signal. So let’s add some ground pours to the design. Start by selecting the POLYGON tool –.

Then (as usual), you’ll need to adjust some settings in the options bar. Select the top copper (1) layer. Also adjust the Isolate setting which defines how much clearance the ground pour gives other signals, 0.012' for this is usually good. Next, draw a set of lines just like you did the dimension box. In fact, just draw right on top of the dimension lines. Start drawing at the origin, trace all the way around, and finish back at the same spot.

A dotted red box should appear around the dimension of the board. After you’ve drawn the polygon, you have to connect it to a net using the NAME tool –. This works just like naming nets on a schematic. Use that tool on the dotted red line you just created, and in the dialog that pops up type “GND”.

(Click to see an animated GIF of the entire process.) The last step is to hit ratsnest, to watch the glorious red pour fill just about the entire area of your board. You’ll probably hate me for telling you this now, but adding ground pours to your design at the very beginning (after placing parts, before routing) makes manual routing much easier. You can (and probably should) have ground pours on both sides of the board, so follow the same set of steps on the bottom layer. It can be hard to tell what is and isn’t connected to the ground pour. If you see a black gap separating a pad and the pour, there is no connection. If you see some traces forming a “target” over the pad, there is a connection from the pour to that pad. If you ever want to hide the polygon (it’s hard to see other stuff with it on there), use the RIPUP tool on the polygon border you just drew.

Don’t worry, the polygon is still there, just hit ratsnest to bring it back. Adding Silkscreen Although it has no real effect on the circuit your designing, silkscreen can be a critical part of the PCB design. You want it to look good, right? Some silkscreen – like part outlines – is automatically placed on the board because it’s a piece of the part. We can manually add other information, like labels, logos, and names. A variety of draw tools – wire ( ), text ( ), circle ( ), arc ( ), rectangle ( ), and polygon ( ) – can be used to draw on the silkscreen layer ( tPlace for top, bPlace for bottom). Have fun and explore with these tools.

You could add labels for the headers, or values for the resistors, or even create a nifty logo. The draw tools are a bit limited, but that doesn’t mean you can’t make it look good! Generating Gerbers When you’ve finalized your design, the last step before sending it off to the fab house is to generate gerber files. Gerber files are kind of a “universal language” for PCB designs. EAGLE is far from the only PCB CAD software out there, and its design files are nothing like those of Orcad or Altium. Fab houses can’t possibly support every piece of software out there, so we send them the gerber files instead. Gerber files – note the plurality – each describe single layers of the PCB.

One gerber might describe the silkscreen, while another defines where the top copper is. In all, we’ll generate seven gerber files to send to the fab house. CAM Processor Before we get too much further, you’ll need to download another definition file:. Then, load up the CAM processor by clicking the CAM icon – – which will open up this window: From here, go to the File menu, then go Open >Job. In the file browser that opens, select the sfe-gerb274x.cam file that you just downloaded. Now the CAM processor window should have a series of tabs: “Top Copper”, “Bottom Copper”, “Top Silkscreen”, etc. Each of these tabs define how to create one of the gerber files.

Now all you have to do is click Process Job. If you haven’t saved recently, it’ll prompt you to. The gerber generation process should be pretty quick. Once it’s run its course, have a look in your project directory, which should have loads of new files in it. In addition to the board (BRD) and schematic (SCH) files, there should now be a.dri,.GBL,.GBO,.GBS,.GML,.gpi,.GTO,.GTP,.GTS, and a.TXT.

Meet the Gerbers! Gerber File Extension Bottom Copper GBL Bottom Silkscreen GBO Bottom Soldermask GBS Top Copper GTL Top Silkscreen GTO Top Soldermask GTS Drill File TXT Drill Station Info File dri Photoplotter Info File gpi Mill Layer GML Top Paste GTP Picking a PCB Manufacturer There are PCB manufacturers all over the world, so you shouldn’t have any trouble finding one. Is pretty great for low-volume, high-quality PCBs (plus, they’re purple!). Is awesomely fast. We could go on and on, but Ladyada has a great list over on.

Before they fabricate the board, the fab house will usually run a quick design for manufacturability (DFM) check, and let you know if something on your design will cause in a problem. Delivering the Gerbers The process of sending gerber files varies by fab house. Most will ask you to send them a zipped folder of select files. Which gerber files?

Check with your fab house again (e.g. And guidelines), but usually you want to send them GTL, GBL, GTS, GBS, GTO, GBO and the TXT files.

The GTP file isn’t necessary for the PCB fabrication, but (if your design had SMD parts) it can be used to create a. So zip those gerbers up. And get ready to assemble your very own PCB! Resources and Going Further If you’d like to check out the reference design we did in this tutorial, you can download them. That also includes the gerber files, and all EAGLE scripts used in this tutorial. Going Further You’ve taken your first step towards being a PCB designer, but there’s still plenty to learn.

If you need a break from reading, check out this According to Pete video, where the Dokter goes over some of the more general concepts of PCB layout: If you’d like to take the PCB layout thing up a notch, give these tutorials a try: • – If you want to create unique parts in a library, check out this tutorial. • – This is a more advanced and fast-paced EAGLE tutorial.

In this one, we focus on laying out a more complex, surface-mount (SMD) design. • – Another footprint-making tutorial. This one details a unique process for making a custom 1:1 footprint. • If you’d like to share your PCB creations with the world, check out these tutorials: • •. In 2003, CU student Nate Seidle blew a power supply in his dorm room and, in lieu of a way to order easy replacements, decided to start his own company. Since then, SparkFun has been committed to sustainably helping our world achieve electronics literacy from our headquarters in Boulder, Colorado.

No matter your vision, SparkFun's products and resources are designed to make the world of electronics more accessible. In addition to over 2,000 open source components and widgets, SparkFun offers curriculum, training and online tutorials designed to help demystify the wonderful world of embedded electronics. We're here to help you start something.

Introduction PCB design in EAGLE is a two-step process. First you design your schematic, then you lay out a PCB based on that schematic. EAGLE’s board and schematic editors work hand-in-hand. A well-designed schematic is critical to the overall PCB design process. It will help you catch errors before the board is fabricated, and it’ll help you debug a board when something doesn’t work.

This tutorial is the first of a two-part Using EAGLE series, and it’s devoted entirely to the schematic-designing side of EAGLE. In part 2,, we’ll use the schematic designed in this tutorial as the basis for our example board layout. Suggested Reading If you’d like to follow along with this tutorial, make sure you’ve installed and setup the EAGLE software. Our tutorial goes over this process step-by-step, and it also covers the basics of what EAGLE is and what makes it great. It also covers how to download and install the SparkFun EAGLE libraries we’ll be using in this tutorial. Definitely read through that tutorial before you continue on. We’d also recommend you read and understand the concepts behind these tutorials: • •.

Create a Project We’ll start by making a new project folder for our design. In the control panel, under the “Projects” tree, right click on the directory where you want the project to live (by default EAGLE creates an “eagle” directory in your home folder), and select “New Project”. Give the newly created, red project folder a descriptive name.

How about “Bare Bones Arduino”. Project folders are like any regular file system folder, except they contain a file named “eagle.epf”. The EPF file links your schematic and board design together, and also stores any settings you may have set especially for the project. Create a Schematic The project folder will house both our schematic and board design files (and eventually our gerber files too). To begin the design process, we need to lay out a schematic.

To add a schematic to a project folder, right-click the folder, hover over “New” and select “Schematic”. A new, blank window should immediately pop up. Welcome to the schematic editor! Adding Parts to a Schematic Schematic design is a two step process. First you have to add all of the parts to the schematic sheet, then those parts need to be wired together.

You can intermix the steps – add a few parts, wire a few parts, then add some more – but since we already have a we’ll just add everything in one swoop. Using the ADD Tool The ADD tool – (on the left toolbar, or under the Edit menu) – is what you’ll use to place every single component on the schematic. The ADD tool opens up a library navigator, where you can expand specific libraries and look at the parts it holds. With a part selected on the left side, the view on the right half should update to show both the schematic symbol of the part and its package. The ADD tool also has search functionality – very helpful when you have to navigate through dozens of libraries to find a part. The search is very literal, so don’t misspell stuff!

You can add wildcards to your search by placing an asterisk (*) before and/or after your search term. For example if you search for atmega328 you should find a single part/package combo in the SparkFun-DigitalIC library, but if you search *atmega328* (note asterisks before and after), you’ll discover two more versions of the IC (because they’re actually named “ATMEGA328 P”). You’ll probably want to get accustomed to always adding an asterisk before and after your search term. To actually add a part from a library either select the part you want and click “OK”, or double-click your part.

Step 1: Add a Frame The frame isn’t a critical component for what will be the final PCB layout, but it keeps your schematic looking clean and organized. The frame we want should be in the SparkFun-Aesthetics library, and it’s named FRAME-LETTER. Find that by either searching or navigating and add it to your schematic. After selecting the part you want to add, it’ll “glow” and start hovering around following your mouse cursor. To place the part, left-click (once!). Let’s place the frame so its bottom-left corner runs right over our origin (the small dotted cross, in a static spot on the schematic). After placing a part, the add tool will assume you want to add another – a new frame should start following your cursor.

To get out of the add-mode either hit escape (ESC) twice or just select a different tool. Step 2: Save (And Save Often) Right now your schematic is an untitled temporary file living in your computer’s ether. To save either go to File >Save, or just click the blue floppy disk icon –. Name your schematic something descriptive.

How about “ BareBonesArduino.sch” (SCH is the file format for all EAGLE schematics). As a bonus, after saving, your frame’s title should update accordingly (you may have to move around the screen, or go to View >Redraw). Step 3: Adding the Power Input Next we’ll add four different parts all devoted to our voltage supply input. Use the add tool for these parts: Part Description Library Part Name Quantity SparkFun-Connectors POWER_JACKPTH 1 SparkFun-Capacitors CAPPTH 1 Voltage Supply Symbol SparkFun-Aesthetics VCC 1 Ground Symbol SparkFun-Aesthetics GND 2 All of these parts will go in the top-left of the schematic frame. Arranged like this: If you need to move parts around, use the MOVE tool – (left toolbar or under the Edit menu).

Left-click once on a part to pick it up (your mouse should be hovering over the part’s red “+” origin). Then left click again when it’s where it needs to be. Step 4: Microprocessor and Supporting Circuitry Next we’ll add the main component of the design – the ATmega328 microprocessor – as well as some components to support it. Here are the parts we’ll add: Part Description Library Exact Part Name Quantity SparkFun-DigitalIC ATMEGA328P_PDIP 1 SparkFun-Resistors RESISTORPTH-1/4W 4 SparkFun-LED LED5MM 3 SparkFun-Capacitors CAPPTH 1 Voltage Supply Symbol SparkFun-Aesthetics VCC 2 Ground Symbol SparkFun-Aesthetics GND 4 To rotate parts as your placing them, either select one of the four options on the rotate toolbar – – or right click before placing the part. Place your microcontroller in the center of the frame, then add the other parts around it like so: Step 5: Adding the Connectors Three connectors will finish off our design. One 8-pin connector to break out the analog pins, a 6-pin serial programming header, and a 2x3-pin ICSP programming header.

Here are the three parts to add for this step: Part Description Library Exact Part Name Quantity 8-Pin 0.1' Header SparkFun-Connectors M081X08 1 2x3 AVR Programming Header SparkFun-Connectors AVR_SPI_PRG_6PTH 1 6-Pin Serial Programming Header SparkFun-Connectors ARDUINO_SERIAL_PROGRAMPTH 1 Voltage Supply Symbol SparkFun-Aesthetics VCC 2 Ground Symbol SparkFun-Aesthetics GND 2 Finally! Here’s what your schematic should look like with every part added: Next we’ll wire net them all together. Wiring Up the Schematic With all of the parts added to our schematic, it’s time to wire them together. There’s one major caveat here before we start: even though we’re wiring parts on the schematic, we not going to use the WIRE tool – – to connect them together.

Instead, we’ll use the NET tool – (left toolbar, or under the Draw menu). The WIRE tool would be better-named as a line-drawing tool, NET does a better job of connecting components. Using the NET Tool To use the NET tool, hover over the very end of a pin (as close as possible, zoom in if you have to), and left-click once to start a wire.

Now a green line should be following your mouse cursor around. To terminate the net, left-click on either another pin or a net. The hard part, sometimes, is identifying which part on a circuit symbol is actually a pin. Usually they’re recognizable by a thin, horizontal, red line off to the side of a part.

Sometimes (not always) they’re labeled with a pin number. Make sure you click on the very end of the pin when you start or finish a net route. Route the Power Input Circuit Start back in the upper left, and route the power input circuit like so: Whenever a net splits in two directions a junction node is created.

This signifies that all three intersecting nets are connected. If two nets cross, but there’s not a junction, those nets are not connected. Route the ATmega328 Circuit Next we’ll route the ATmega328 to its supporting circuitry. There’s LEDs, a connector, resistor, capacitor and VCC/GND symbols to route to: Don’t forget to add nets between the LEDs, resistors, and GND symbols! Making Named, Labeled Net Stubs The remaining nets we have to make are not going to be as easy to cleanly route. For example, we need to connect the TXO pin on JP2 to the ATmega’s RXD pin, all the way on the other side.

You could do it, it would work, but it’d be really ugly. Instead, we’ll make net “stubs” and give them unique names to connect them. We’ll start by adding short, one-sided nets to each of the six pins on the serial connector. Begin by starting a net at a pin, just as you’ve been doing.

Terminate the net by left-clicking a few grid-lengths over to the right of the pin. Then, instead of routing to another pin, just hit ESC to finish the route. When you’re done, it should look like this: Next, we’ll use the NAME tool – (left toolbar, or under the Edit menu) – to name each of the six nets. With the NAME tool selected, clicking on a net should open a new dialog. Start by naming the net connected to the top, GND pin. Delete the auto-generated name (e.g.

N$14), and replace it with “GND” (sans the quotation marks). This should result in a warning dialog, asking you if you want to connect this net to all of the other nets named “GND” (that would be every net connected to a GND symbol). Thanks for looking out for us EAGLE, but in this case Yes we do want to connect GND to GND. After naming a net, you should use the LABEL tool – – to add a text label. With the LABEL tool selected, left-click on the net you just named.

This should spawn a piece of text that says “GND”, left-click again to place the label down right on top of your net. Follow that same order of operations for the remaining five net stubs. In the end, they should look like this (note the net connected to the TXO pin is named “RX”, and a “TX” net connects to RXI – that’s on purpose): VCC should be the only other net that warns you that you’ll be connecting to other nets named “VCC” (anything connected to a VCC voltage node). For the other named nets, we’ll need to create this same stub somewhere else. Where exactly? Well, we need to add a “RX” and “TX” net on the ATmega328, and a “DTR” nearby as well: Even though there’s no green net connecting these pins, every net with the same, exact name is actually connected. We need to do a lot of the same to connect the 2x3 programming header to the ATmega328.

First, wire up the connector like so (naming/labeling MOSI, MISO, SCK, and RESET): Then, back to the ATmega328, add the same four named/labeled nets: Phew – you’re done. Get excited, it’s about time to lay out a PCB! When your schematic is done, it should look a little something like this: The schematic layout is done, but there are a few tips and tricks we’d like to share before moving over to the PCB layout portion of the tutorial.

Tips and Tricks Names and Values Every component on your schematic should have two editable text fields: a name and a value. The name is an identifier like R1, R2, LED3, etc. Every component on the schematic should have a unique name. You can use the NAME tool – on any component to change the name. A part’s value allows you to define unique characteristics of that part.

For example, you can set a resistor’s resistance, or a capacitor’s capacitance. The importance of a part’s value depends on what type of component it is. For parts like resistors, capacitors, inductors, etc. The value is a critical piece of information when you’re generating a bill of materials or assembly sheet. To adjust a part’s value parameter, use the VALUE tool –. Verifying Connections The SHOW tool – – is very useful for verifying that pins across your schematic are connected correctly. If you use SHOW on a net, every pin it’s connected to should light up.

If you’re dubious of the fact that two like-named nets are connected, give the SHOW tool a try. SHOW-ing a net connected to GND, for example, should result in a lot of GND nets lighting up. As an alternative to show, you can temporarily MOVE a part a part to make sure nets are connected to it. Use MOVE to pick a part up, and the nets connected to it should bend and adjust to remain so. Just make sure you hit ESC to not move the part (or UNDO if you accidentally move it).

If all the nets connected to a part MOVE with it, all connections are good. If a net isn’t moving along with the part, it’s not connected to the pin correctly. Double check to make sure you routed to the very end of the pin, and not a bit further: If you have any nets incorrectly connected like above, DELETE – – it, and try re-netting. Group Moving/Deleting/Etc. Any tool that you use on a single component, can also be used on a group of them.

Grouping and performing an action on that group is a two-step process. First, use the group tool – – to select the parts you want to modify. You can either hold down the left-mouse button and drag a box around them, or click multiple times to draw a polygon around a group. Once the group is made, every object in that group should glow. After grouping, select the tool you want to use.

The status box in the far bottom-left will have some helpful information pertaining to using the tool on a group: In order to perform any action on a group, you have to select the tool, then hold down CTRL and right-click the group. After you CTRL+right-click, the tool will operate on the group just as it does a single component.

Copy/Paste EAGLE’s Copy – – and Paste – – tools don’t work exactly like other copy/paste tools you may have encountered before. Copy actually performs both a copy and paste when it’s used.

As soon as you copy a part (or any object on the schematic – name, text, net, etc.) an exact copy will instantly spawn and follow your mouse awaiting placement. This is useful if you need to add multiples of the same part (like GND nodes or resistors). Paste can only be used to paste a group that has previously been copied to your clipboard. To use paste you first have to create a group, then (with the copy tool selected) CTRL+right-click to copy it, but hit ESC instead of gluing it down. This’ll store the copied group into your operating system’s clipboard, and you can use paste to place it somewhere. This tool is especially useful if you need to copy parts of one schematic file into another.

Resources and Going Further This tutorial is the first of a pair. The next tutorial,, will use the schematic we designed here to lay out a “Bare Bones Arduino” PCB.

If you’re headed over to that tutorial next, you can get a head start by clicking the Generate/Switch to Board icon – – to create a board based on this schematic. If you’d rather read about other EAGLE-related concepts, here are some tutorials you may want to check out: • – This is a more advanced and fast-paced EAGLE tutorial. In this one, we focus on laying out a more complex, surface-mount (SMD) design. • – If you want to create unique parts in a library, check out this tutorial.

• – Another footprint-making tutorial. This one details a unique process for making a custom 1:1 footprint. If you’d like to share your PCB creations with the world, check out these tutorials: • •. In 2003, CU student Nate Seidle blew a power supply in his dorm room and, in lieu of a way to order easy replacements, decided to start his own company. Since then, SparkFun has been committed to sustainably helping our world achieve electronics literacy from our headquarters in Boulder, Colorado.

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Remarks: • The minimum annular ring rule “Minimum-IAR” is set to the IAR value of the Pattern class. This value is larger than the OAR. When “Top-Middle-Bottom” or “Full stack” is used it is possible to change the OAR to the (smaller) values of the Pattern Class. • Altium Designer checks the minimal annular ring value when “Top-Middle-Bottom” or “Full stack” is used the OAR can be set smaller than the IAR. The“FindAnnularRing_XX.pas” script is capable to check the annular ring for OAR and IAR on the appropriate values for PTH (PHD is finished hole size + 100µm).