Install Casters On Amp

I have a Twin Reverb RI and as you know, it's HEAVY. I used to have a Super with the casters (that popped out too which was nice) and I've been toying with the idea of adding some to the Twin. I'm not so concerned about value as it's a RI. In fact, one argument people have against buying one is the weight, so in some cases it might even be a selling point. But I am concerned about them rattling. I've thought about the pop-in/out kind, but of course that probably involves drilling a larger hole in the bottom with a hole saw or something. So I'm thinking the kind that just have a plate with 4 screws would be a little more convenient - especially if I want to remove them later.

Anyone have any experience putting casters on amps? Any recommendations? Lowes, Sears, what about 'amp caddys' or anything like that?

I've seen lots of casters on Marshall combos. I'd like to do this myself but I don't want to damage the amp or ruin its resale value. May 13, 2012 How to install tilt-back legs on a Fender Princeton Reverb II. Installing tilt-back legs on a Fender amp pt. DIY Road Case Casters & Caster.

Thanks, Steve. Click to expand. That's true to some degree. You should let your amp cool down before moving it anyway, especially on casters. Obviously, it depends on what material you're rolling it on as well.

Of course, mine rode in the back of band trailers, so there's no telling how much abuse it got. I've gotten to a gig before and a power amp tube was laying in the bottom of the amp!

Put it in and it still played fine. So I'd say, 1: let it cool, 2: take it as easy as you can.

3: carry extra tubes with you. My honest opinion: if you're going to shell out the money for or already own a quality amp like a Twin, I'd highly suggest buying a reasonably-priced flite case for it. There are some companies on the web now that offer quality ones that don't cost an arm and a leg. Then you can just leave it in the tray at a gig. You should still cool it down like the other gentleman said. But it'll also be sitting in foam when you move it. You'd also have the option of sitting it up on the lid.

Try this: I've seen some EWI cases up close and they're well-built and are reasonably-priced. My honest opinion: if you're going to shell out the money for or already own a quality amp like a Twin, I'd highly suggest buying a reasonably-priced flite case for it. There are some companies on the web now that offer quality ones that don't cost an arm and a leg. Then you can just leave it in the tray at a gig. You should still cool it down like the other gentleman said. But it'll also be sitting in foam when you move it.

You'd also have the option of sitting it up on the lid. Try this: I've seen some EWI cases up close and they're well-built and are reasonably-priced. Click to expand.He he - let's put it this way Tommy, I had to wait until I was about 36 years old to be able to afford to drop a grand on a twin. Instead of disposable income I have 'predisposed' income if you know what I mean. I went up to Lowe's and bought 4 casters for about 3 bucks each, and a 1x2 for 98 cents. I already had some 3/4 inch particle board.

So I cut a sheet a little larger than the amp's base, put 1x2s around the perimeter (to make a 'tray') and put the casters on the bottom. One afternoon, 15 bucks.

I did add some D-rings so I can bungee cord the tray to the amp. The advantage is, I have a Marshall Combo that's the same basic footprint, so this 'caddy' will carry either. It's also still close enough to the floor that I could still use the Twin's tilt back legs if I want - it leans back a tad further than normal, but I could always put a 2/4 or something under the legs. The only bad thing so far is those casters tend to try to pull to one side - I'm betting that one of them is just slightly angled (my lack of carpentry skills) and is riding on the outside edge, causing it to turn in.

I bet once they wear down some though they'll true up. And I figure, I've got enough particle board left over that for 15 bucks each, I can make 3 more of these. And for even less I can fix anything that happens to this one. I went to U-Haul and got a moving cart for $19.95. It has 3' wheels.

Two swivel and two are stationary. You can't even buy the heels for this price.

It is covered with carpet and has a handle. Dimension Pro 15 Vstdxi Hybrid X86 Server. I am sure it weighs less than then lbs.

No drilling required and it is fairly small. You can attach your amps or speakers, etc with bungee or get creative and find some other way. It comes in handy for a lot of other things as well. I bought two. It fits a 4 X 12' cab perfectly but I keep a 4 X 10' cabinet on each. Minor mods will allot it to work with most any amp. I have used the Ernie Ball casters and still have an unopened box of the that I don't intend to use.

My problem with them and similar casters is that 2' wheels tend to not want to roll over ever small obstacles as small as guitar cords, they rattle and you have to drill holes and sometimes the reverb tank or other pieces are where you want to drill. The removable casters the Boogie sells in the 3' size seem to be the way to go. I wish there was a 2 1/2' version of them. 2' is too short and 3' can be a little tall but that might be just me.

How to install tilt-back legs on a Fender Princeton Reverb II. Both my amps have the reverb tank mounted on the side, so these numbers should keep you from drilling into that. First hole is for the pivot screw. I measured 13,5 cm from the top of the cabinet and 6,0 cm from the back of the cabinet. I used a 5,0 mm drill. On the outside the pivot screw goes through the leg, through a washer, into the whole you just drilled and on the inside you put another washer, a stop washer and the stop nut.

I used a an adjustable spanner and a Philips #2 screwdriver for the tightening. Don't be a dork like I was for the first 20 seconds of tightening; use the spanner to fixate the nut and tighten using the screwdriver, not the other way around, duh!

For the stop I measured 11 cm from the top and 11 cm from the back for a nice square feeling I guess. The screw for the leg stop won't go through the wood, but pretty close. I used a 3.3 mm drill for this whole. Drill about half way through the side of the cabinet and as you tighten the screw you'll hear the wood crunch a little, mmmmmh:) Repeat, tilt back, plug in, play, all is well.